How raffia becomes a hat

|Regina Shpolyansky

Raffia comes from the leaves of the raffia palm. The fibre is stripped, dried, and — for the coloured pieces — hand-dyed before any weaving starts. Then it is hand-loomed: worked on a loom by a person, band by band, which is why the stripe patterns in our multicolour hats swirl rather than repeat mechanically.

Our raffia pieces are made in Madagascar, one of the regions where this craft has been practised for generations.

Why hand-loomed looks different

Machine-woven straw is uniform. Every centimetre matches every other centimetre, which sounds like quality and reads, in the hand, as slightly dead.

Hand-loomed raffia has small variations in tension and dye uptake across the piece. That is the visual difference. The structural difference matters more: a hand-worked brim can be shaped and re-shaped, which is why these hats are described as packable. You can flatten one into a case and bring it back with your hands.

A stiffened, glued brim cannot do that. It creases once and stays creased.

Reading a raffia piece before you buy it

  • Look at the brim edge. A hand-finished edge is worked back into the weave. A cut edge is sealed and will eventually fray.
  • Flex the crown gently. It should give and return. If it resists entirely, something rigid was added.
  • Check where colour meets colour. On hand-dyed fibre the transition has slight softness. A printed pattern sits on the surface.

Looking after it

Raffia is a natural fibre and behaves like one. Keep it dry, or let it dry slowly and flat if it gets caught in rain — not on a radiator, which makes fibre brittle. Store it stuffed lightly rather than crushed under something heavy. Reshape a soft brim with your hands, not with heat.

Treated that way, a raffia hat outlasts a decade of the alternatives.

Why we stock it

Heritage craft preservation is one of our sourcing commitments: we deliberately allocate shelf space to techniques at risk of being lost. Hand-looming is exactly that kind of technique. It is slower than the machine, it cannot be scaled quickly, and it survives only if there is demand for what it produces.

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